Guest Blog

2017 July 8-21 Scotland BLOG

I spent a lovely thirteen days with Sally and Noel on Kalinka1.  Our travels took us from Glasgow Harbour on the Clyde to Dunstaffnage, a small town just north of Oban.  Our ports of call and anchorages in between included Rothesay on Bute Island, Tarbert, Campbelltown (whose very high concrete walls had us turn around and leave), the island of Gigha (Geeya – six miles long, two wide), Fairy Isles (a romantic anchorage off Loch Sween , and Ardfern.

In Glasgow, we had the wonderful privilege of a tour of the Riverside Museum of Transport.  Elspeth Fanjoy had contacted her cousin, Graham Campbell of Glasgow, to meet with us.  He kindly proffered a bottle of whiskey for Sally & Noel on his arrival at Kalinka.  And then he told us that he is a guide at the Museum and has been active in this role for some 10+ years.  What a bonus for us!  We thank you, Graham!  The museum included transport vehicles from steam engines, to cars, to bikes, to baby carriages and the first plane to take flight…..  Perey Pilcher was not recognized for his achievement because when he tried to attach an engine to his plane, it failed.  And he died a few weeks before friends succeeded with a repaired engine and actually flew farther than the Wright Brothers did some twenty years later.  Should you visit the museum you will see walls with many cars hung on them, bicycles and motorcycles ‘flying’ in the air, many models of ships ‘floating’ by, a street of the 1890’s that has been replicated with the transportation and shops of the era, steam engines….  One of the very nice features of this museum and others that I later visited in Edinburgh, were the ‘picnic’ areas for families to enjoy – bring your own food and drink, and sit on wide window ledges and benches to take a break with your family.

As we sat in the cockpit of the boat, we were delighted to see the Waverley pass by.  She is a steam paddle boat that still runs excursions for tourists from Glasgow to Rothesay.  She is a pretty vessel that can quickly reach speeds of 30??? Knots, leaving quite a wake and rocking our little ship as she passes.  We, unfortunately, did not take a ride on her.

While in Glasgow, we also visited the Tallship, Glenlee, an old restored vessel that lies just outside the Museum (reflected in the museum windows in the picture).  It was the landmark that guided me to Kalinka after my journey from Toronto through Edinburgh to Glasgow although I did have difficulty finding Kalinka as it hid behind a huge ferry boat moored on the same pontoon as my soon to be accommodation for the next two weeks.  I took a considerable amount of teasing – ‘Didn’t you see the Canadian flag?   The green foresail cover?’  ….

A Hop-on, Hop-off bus stop was two minutes from the boat so we took it to have a quick look at Glasgow.  We hopped off at stop # 7.  In the grand Central Station, we noticed a man and his two girls carrying a box of Timbits!  Needless to say, we headed to Timmy’s very near the station and had sticky buns and coffee!  The Scots seem to enjoy architecture that includes glorious high glass ceilings.  As in the Central Station, the National Museum in Edinburgh also boasted the most fantastic five storey high Victorian glass ceiling providing a vast space for sculptures and an amazing light from an old lighthouse 

Our trip down the Clyde and across the Firth of Clyde to Rothesay, was a motoring event as there was very little wind.  The water was calm and the skies dappled.  The river was highly industrialized, mostly with shipbuilding and cargo moving.  Today there are many remnants of old docks heaps of metal and a very few remaining working boatbuilding establishments.  The shores are beginning to be developed for public use, but such spots are still few.  As we approached Greenoch, we began to see a little less industrialization, some farm land, housing, a golf course, hotels.  Scots are looking to see such changes as was indicated by our driver on the bus earlier; he commented that ‘the buildings to the left are an eyesore.  I do hope the restoration occurs quickly as the current situation in not very pleasant and it brings down the area!’

Rothesay, on Bute Island, is a quiet little town with a splendid 13^th century castle, once a favourite residence of the Stuart kings.  The town, formerly a holiday destination, lost its custom when it became so easy to visit the continent.  There is a recent resurgence – perhaps because of Brexit.  Other than one sign saying there was a vacancy at a B’nB, the town seemed somewhat sleepy.  Near sunset, we walked around the Rothesay Castle with seagulls & jackdaws nesting in the walls – now under ongoing repair and in parts, surrounded by a picturesque moat.   During the day, it is open to visitors.

Our next port of call was Tarbert.  To take advantage of the slack tide, we had an early 0630 start.  We had to navigate around Burnt Islands and chose the very narrow, but shorter north side of the islands. As the tide began to rise, we could see it clearly against the marks we passed north of Burnt Islands.  The water was flat calm when we left this morning, so subtle changes to the surface were easily seen.  We rounded the north end of Bute Island and picked up a little speed as we began to move southeast, now with the tide.  The channel was a tranquil beautiful spot with many elegant homes and sailboats, not unlike the Georgian Bay area in Ontario.  We observed several dolphins (including a youngster) and a seal resting on a rock.  It arched its back and later slid into the water after two kayakers passed by.  ….  Our trip took just over 4 hours.  There were showers …. a most welcome occurrence!  Dave & Dawn, Sally and Noel’s friends, joined us for ‘happy hour’ and then we walked to dinner at Starfish, a very highly regarded restaurant in the town – it lived up to it’s reputation.  We all had fish – I had whitebait, a delicacy I first enjoyed in Spain when Roger, my first husband & I travelled there in 1987.  The conversation at the table was interesting and humourous…. a great evening.   The town of Tarbert surrounds the bay.  At one end of the horseshoe is the marina where we moored; at the other end, we spoke with a fisherman repairing his net, which he said would last two years with regular use.  Colourful fishing boats were moored near this spot.  We chose not to make the climb up to the castle above the fishing boats.  We observed a crane catching its evening meal at low tide, as we walked back to the boats for an early evening as we anticipated another early start the next morning in to avoid the ‘weather’ coming in the next afternoon.

And so, at 0500 hours, we – or rather Sally & Noel – rose to set off for Gigha, with a stop at Campbelltown to pick up fuel for Dave & Dawn Smith.  (S&N kindly let me sleep, or rather just stay in bed, for a bit more while they prepared and set off – much appreciated!)  We arrived in Campbelltown to discover high concrete walls, suitable for fishing boat mooring and so simply turned around and continued our journey to Gigha.  Don had enough fuel to get there & Noel had some extra should the situation become dire.  It was a glorious day with a light breeze and clear blue skies above.  The clouds over the mainland and Arran Island never ventured near us.  Sally and Noel had judged the tides perfectly; we averaged 6.5-7 knots with an occasional 8 knots.  We arrived at Gigha shortly after 1700 hours, found a mooring ball, tied on, lowered the dinghy, put on the sail cover and settled with a tasty G&T, and then sampled a very peaty whiskey, an acquired taste, methinks.  Tony & Anne Smith on Crystalyn, friends of mine hosts, arrived to pick up the last available mooring.  After a tasty dinner, we sat over coffee in the cockpit, then retired relatively early.   After a full Scottish breakfast (eggs, Irish bacon, fried potatoes with onions, mushrooms, toast & coffee), Noel put the engine on the dinghy and took it for its first run this summer – he was a happy camper when all went well.  Around noon we took a walk around the town and checked out the Boathouse, the restaurant where we plan to eat for Sally’s birthday the next day, July 14^th (yes, Bastille Day).  With Tony, Anne, Dave & Dawn, we rented bikes for the day.  I was a bit wobbly to begin – the last time I had ridden was 2 years ago in Norway on the Atlantic Way – but soon was an ‘expert’, if you want to believe that!  At the top of the first hill there was a yert available to rent was beautifully furnished and had a very pretty garden out front.  The bike began to the north on mainly a narrow road; we had to pull off the road to let cars pass.  Riding downhill was liberating; riding uphill a challenge – many times a few of us had to dismount and walk up.  We passed a few farmhouses, a golf course and a few beaches with spectacular white sand and clear cold waters.  The south end of the island was less challenging.  We turned back at the Botanical Garden to which we would return the next day.  We returned the bikes at about 1700 hours when it began to spit; by the time everyone arrived at the Boathouse for a drink it was pouring.  Several of us got soaked, so sitting down for a drink was a perfect respite.  Life jackets in the dinghy were soaked; Kalinka became very damp as we hung up our soaked clothes.  Sally made a delicious meal to sooth our slightly frazzled feeling.

The next day (Sally’s BD) we visited the local cemetery that dates to the 1800’s and houses WWI Vets and soldiers.  Above the cemetery is an old obam with runes down one corner.  Below the cemetery is the Botanical Garden.  The vegetation was huge (giant rhubarb-like plants, many rhododendrons, lilies, astilbe, camellias and many whose names I do not know.  There is a walled garden with peacocks protecting it.  The grounds are a part of a Scottish Trust.  The islanders arranged a purchase of the island from the Laird.  Many of their funds were arranged through the Scottish Heritage Foundation.  The community is gradually becoming self-sustaining …. Beginning with the many wind farms they have set up.

We began the evening on Dave & Dawn’s boat with champagne, a singing of Happy Birthday Sally, and presents before going up to the Boathouse for the birthday dinner.  The meals were entirely decadent – the food lived up to the reputation of the establishment.  We took a short and pleasant walk afterward to stave off the feeling of being totally stuffed. 

We woke to a blustery, rainy day with a temperature of ~16 degrees C…. and then the winds changed direction form SW to W.  So Noel decided we should stay put.  We spent the day reading and puttering until Dave came to get us to join them on their boat, Crystalyn, for dinner (Anne & Tony had left very early for Port Ellen – about 20km to the west).  We enjoyed a lovely dinner and several game of UNO.  There was a lovely red sky sunset as we returned to Kalinka for the night.

Sunday morning (July 16^th) was breezy and sunny.  We sailed in tandem with Dave & Dawn, from mid-morning all the way north from Gigha to Loch Sween & Tayvallich.  Unfortunately, there were no moorings available; we made our way up the loch to Sailean Mhor where we found a pristeen and serene little anchorage, just large enough for two boats, at Fairy Isles.  It was 1500 hours.  We noticed a young seal briefly poking its nose out of the water.  Dawn inflated her kayak and took a little trip around the nearby islands; Noel took the dinghy to do the same.  They saw more seals.  Sally cooked up a feast on Kalinka.  We once again enjoyed the company and good conversation with Dave & Dawn. 

Early Monday morning (0710) we departed our little secluded paradise and made for Ardfern.  It was a glorious morning of sailing in calm seas on a mostly sunny day.  We were on a broad reach the whole way.  Dawn called ahead to the Ardfern Yacht Marina to reserve a mooring for them and us.  Showers and laundry – yea!  It’s amazing how one can ‘conserve’ clothes over several days when one travels ‘light’.  …. Princess Anne’s new yacht, a Russler 45, was in port there.  We had hoped we might see her, but it was not to be.  ….  We dined out that night at The Galley of Lorne (also an Inn).  The grounds were green & hilly with picnic tables.  We had reservations in the dining room, a large and lovely bright room with one wall of windows overlooking the bay of moored boats, one wall painted a deep red, the opposite wall a creamy white, and the fourth wall exterior stone of the original inn/pub.  The painted walls were covered with the paintings (mostly watercolours) of David Graham – beautiful scenery of the area.  Food was once again, delicious.

Once again, we had a very early start (0500) as we left Ardfern, heading south, around the Doros Mor, and then north to Dunstaffnage, a small town just North of Oban.  Once again, calculations with respect to tides were spot on.  We came through Doros Mor in flat calm water.  As we moved north, we began to see little eddies on the water and flat circles, as conflicting tides met.  Whirlpools can occur at these points, should one judge the tides incorrectly.  The morning was calm, the sun from the east quite brilliant on the water; the hills were hazy, changing to duskier greens/greys as they were farther away – quite breath-taking.  As we motored north, the channel became narrower …. We passed a very small island with a lighthouse and a house and wondered how anyone could live there and sustain themselves.  …. We decided not to stay in Oban; there were new city docks, but not yet open.  S&N had not found the marina opposite the harbour satisfactory on a previous stay, so we continued to Dunstaffnage (pronounced Dunstaffich) – a new, well-maintained marina that was a ten-minute bus ride to Oban.  We spent a couple of hours that afternoon in Oban, and stopped at the Oban Chocolate Factory for a delicious ice cream – yum!  We booked tickets for the next day – a trip to local islands. Settling on the boat for cider (Noel) and icy G&T’s (Sally & me) was lovely after our long day.  I booked my train tickets for Friday – wow!  The sailing holiday is nearly over!

On Wednesday, July 19^th, we head out to catch our 0847 bus for our trip to Mull, Staffa & Iona.  We picked up a bit of food for the trip as there would be few possibilities during the day.  Our tour took us, by ferry, across to Craignure on Mull where we caught a bus to Fionaphort.  The driver, Connel, peppered us with many local stories and the history of the island and of Scotland.  ….  Mull has a population of 3000 in the summer, 2000 in the winter; Mull was created some 50000 years ago & then was raked over during the ice age – hence the many black volcanic rocks that dot the island; on peninsula of Mull, the Berg, actually has fossilized trees on it; ancient lairds built ‘cranins’ as a kind of protection (cheap castles with the loch as a natural moat); a munro is a mountain; Ross means red; Eva Braun was from a village on Mull.  The road is one bus-width wide.  It has laybys every so often so either the bus or on-coming car can let the other pass.  Industries on the island include forestry, tourism, fishing, farming (sheep/cattle); there is the famous long-horned bull, Taurus.

By the time we reached Fionnphort, the seas were picking up.  The Staffa Ferry personnel split the group into two.  We boarded the second boat; many donned yellow slickers to stay outside.  The ride began quite well, but soon the seas became very lumpy.  As we approached Staffa and the Captain turned the boat side on to the island, he decided the seas were too rough to land.  Consequently, we saw the Fingal’s Cave from the boat – a very deep cathedral like cave in which the waves echo.  The cave walls and surrounding cliffs are composed of vertical, hexagonal basalt columns that look like pillars.  We were disappointed to miss our walk with the puffins, who apparently enjoy the presence of the humans that scare away the seagulls that steal their eggs.  Unfortunately, the 50+ knot winds made for a very rough ride back to Fionnphort, causing several passengers serious bouts of sea-sickness.  Our captain & crew were competent in very challenging conditions.

We visited an old Nunnery and Iona Cathedral located just off Mull’s western shore.  The cathedral was founded by St. Columba who sailed from Ireland and landed on Iona in 563.  He established a monastic community with the aim of Christianizing Scotland.  It was here that the Book of Kells – the prize attraction of Dublin’s Trinity College – is believed to have been transcribed.   It was said to have been taken to Ireland for safe-keeping from 9^th Century Viking raiders.  The place is magical and seemed all the more so because of the very high winds the day we were there.  The thunderclouds partially covered brilliant blue skies while we were there and did not open up with rain until we were heading back to the ferry to return to Mull and then back to Oban.

As we waited for our 2100 bus back to Dunstaffnage, we were treated to a bagpipe band rehearsal – in the rain.  The high school band was preparing to enter the Festival in Tobermory the next day. 

On Thursday, July 20^th, my last day with Sally & Noel, we decided to take in Dunstaffnage Castle.  The weather was glorious – sunny, not too warm, breezy – perfect!  After another delicious ‘Sally’ breakfast, we walked the 30 minutes to the castle, located across the bay from where we were moored.  The castle is built atop a 20’+ high volcanic rock, rather forbidding as you approach it.  Inside we observed a young girl repairing some of the stonework; she was an apprentice mason, one of 25% of the stone masons in Scotland today.  It is a medieval castle, and was much involved with Bonnie Prince Charlie, among many other famous historical figures.  One prime feature of the castle was the interior spring well, rather unusual for most castles.  As we looked out from the ramparts, we could see our marina across the bay.

That evening we dined with Dawn & Dave (they had come in from Ardfern) at the Wide Mouth Frog, the restaurant at the top of the hill from the marina.  Once again the Scots served up a good meal and the company served up excellent conversation.

The next morning, Friday the 21^st, a cab picked me up at 0745 so I could catch my 0847 train to Mallaig and then on to Glasgow and Edinburgh, where I spent a few days.  There were many highlights on the last leg of my journey, but my climb up the 850 feet of Arthur’s Seat in Edinburgh left me feeling chuffed and energised at having completed it!

Once again, Sally and Noel gave me a gift – the opportunity to spend time with them and to see parts of the world, I would otherwise not have seen.  You are the best, and kindest people.  Thank you. 

Dianne 

Oban to Port Ellen

 

Sunday July 30 2017.

0800 Hmm. I’m beginning to sleep in. I get up, I make the tea, I check the weather I put my hand out the companionway hatch It gets wet and is colder on one side. (I do not go and wake Sally up by touching her!)

We get underway so as to catch a favourable tide in the Luing sound. We do and swoosh through at between 8 and 10 knots. A sleigh ride with some bumps passing Corryveggan sound. The weather is not getting any better  so we decide to stop early at Lowlandmans bay on the island of Jura. We drop anchor in the anchorage at the West end of the Bay. We have done 37 miles.

We launch the dinghy and motor over to Christolyn  for a chilli dinner and Canasta. I won J))

Monday July 31 2017.

0930 we dinghy over and pick up Dawn then head into the beach for a walk. The SUN is out!  Sally and Dawn go for a walk over the sand banks to the next bay. I walk along the beach and then up onto the dunes. There are a herd of wild man eating sheep in the grass and bushes. I practice my stalking skills and manage to get pretty close when I see the girls coming back. The shheeps run away  Sally tells me to come see something. So I do.

It’s a mound of rocks. Some evidence of digging at both ends. Hmm. It’s either a small Viking tomb or Neolithic I then look around some more and find 2 others that don’t show evidence of tampering One even had trees growing out of it. Sally had seen another one overlooking the other beach. Also found what looked like the foundation of a building of some sort.

No time for further explorations so we get back to our boats get the anchors up and head off to our next anchorage .

1400 Hoisted up the Anchor and left the anchorage at 1430 with one reef in. We motored across to the N/W anchorage on the Island of Gigha. Anchored by 1630 off a very nice white sand beach. 11 miles today.

Tuesday August 1 2017.

0800 Up nice Sunny morning made tea and watched the S/V Leader (A Big 22 metre Ketch) sail out her anchor and sail backwards out of the anchorage and head off to her next port of call. We went ashore with Dawn in her dinghy had a walk about met a couple of friendly dogs picked up some trash went back to our respective boats and got underway for our next Port of call. Port Ellen

1200 engine on. Raised the anchor. (Sally wouldn’t let me try to sail ours outL) and were on our way by 1230.

We tried sailing and managed a ½ hours worth before we accepted defeat and turned the engine back on and Motored the rest of the way to Port Ellen where we tied up at 1630. Another Wet cold crossing. (Do you sense a theme here?)

Port Ellen is the main Harbour on the Island Of Islay. Islay if your not aware is the Scotch Capitol of the World.

Wednesday August 2 2017 ( HAPPY BIRTHDAY to my favourite sister Andrea)  to Monday August 7 2017.

.Weathered in.

We took a local bus up to the Aardbeg Distillery went into the shop didn’t get the warm and friendlies so walked to the Laphroig distillery where we did get the warm and friendlies and even some samples of their wares. I could develop a taste for this. We left and then walked to Lagulvin distillery for some more sampling. Dufinetly getting ug taste now. They were closing so we left and walked a further 3 kilometers back to town. It was raining.

We then rented a car. No not after the samplings but the next morning so we could do drive about instead of walk about. So we drove about and visited the rest of the distilleries on the Island and took a ferry to the island of Colonsay to visit a gin distillery and try to get to Oronsay but we missed the tide for Oronsay and could only admire it from a distance.

Heather and Allen arrived in their camper for a vist which we had. 

The interior of Islay was nothing like the coast. It was all rolling hills, peat bogs fields and woods along with farms towns and Distilleries. the island could secede from the union and the money made would support everyone. though the distilleries do not employ a lot of people as everything is automated. Only 1 or 2 of the distilleries actually only use local grains and bottles their product on the island and I think only two are actually still privately owned.

if we had not rented the car and only stayed in Port Ellen we would have had a very different experience and opinion of the place and not a good one.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Turn around.

 

July 25 2017

0600 up tea time. Check the weather. Forecast terrible in the next couple of days to go any further North. Decision made to begin the journey back to our winter home.

0700 weigh anchor and we’re on our way. Again we follow Christolyn. This navigation stuff is easy! We see a bunch of seals sunning themselves. When they’re out of the water they are either stretched out flat or they curl like a banana on it’s back.

We exit the loch, get some sails up, turn on the auto pilot because it beats hand steering hands down. Only! It doesn’t want to work!! OH MY what to do?

I go and dig out a spare. Hook it up,turn on the electricity. Nothing, el zippo, nadda. Change the connections. Still nothing. Fewy (insert bad words of your choice. As many as you think necessary). Give it a shake and a bang. Still nothing. Decide it is probably not going to wake up any time soon so unconnect it. I go and get another one.(You all thought we were out of luck didn’t you?) Ha triple redundancy in the auto pilot department. (Have I mentioned how much I don’t like steering a boat) Hook up number 3. #3 is different from #’s 1&2 I just figured out how to use symbols on the keyboard J The difference is that it still has the big plug still attached. So I root around in my electrical bits box a recycled fishing tackle box green and beishy in keeping with the boat colours. I find a couple of test leads with alligator clips on both ends. They just happen to be green and unwhite white. I clip one on each of the prongs on the plug and one onto the ends of the wires going to the motor on the steering wheel. Turn on the electricity OHOH!!! Instant memory recall I change the wires,,,,, beep, flashing red eye, push the buttons, wheel goes one way then the next Now will it hold a course? Tighten the belt (on the wheel as this is an old belt driven wheel auto pilot) Push the auto button, steady red light one beep and,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Viola, Bob is your uncle and we’re heading somewhat West South West. Which is the direction we want to go until we turn South but that’s later in the story. Happy days I celebrate with Sally. She is much pleased that she doesn’t have to listen to me bemoan our state of having to steer. Much easier to push buttons and enjoy the scenery.

Back to the story if your still with us? We head Westish until we come to Ardamurcharan Point(Say that fast three times)  Sail past the point (We don’t want to hit it) push the minus 10* button 7 times. The Auto Pilot beeps at each push of the button Good so far. The wheel begins to turn to port. Still looking and sounding good. It stops after we have gone through 70*s (* what I have to use for a degree mark as there isn’t one on this keyboard. We’re talking degrees of a circle not degrees earned or not in school). The wheel then moves back to starboard then back to port and soforth and then stops on our new course of South Eastish. After a couple of hours we repeat the above and turn on to a course more Southerly and then we turn Westish again and enter the Port of Tobermory. No mooring this year as a Blow expected so we head right to the pontoons and snare one at 1100. We are here for at least another day as Bad weather tomorrow. We go walk about and have Fish and Chips off a truck for lunch.

Wednesday July 26 2017.

Wake up at the usual time. Hammering down rain, Wind is howling. So I roll over wake Sally up She smacks me I go back to sleep.

It stays miserable all day so we go over to Christolyn where Dave and Dawn teach us how to play Canasta. I lose.

Thursday July 27 2017.

0800 up Not so bad out but not really good either. I fix the wiring on the auto pilot. I cut off the plug and put spade connectors on that matched the one on the control box. Sally checks the tides. We go and wake D&D up. 1000 We get under way in the rain. We have a window to get further South to Oban 20 miles further South. Gales are forecast for later in the day. It’s a Motorboat ride but we make it and are tied up at 1400 on a pontoon on Carrerra Island. Across the bay from the city of Oban.

Friday July 28 and Saturday 29 2017.

We stay put. The Gales forecasted actually happened! Both miserable wet windy days. D&D decided to take the tour to Iona that we took on the way up. They had even worse luck than us. At least we were able to see Iona and Staffa.  Their bus got rearended by another bus resulting in a lot of minor injuries and no tour but money back. Sunday we all took a bus tour to Edenvale on the slate Islands Pouring Rain but it got us off the boats. Also did walk about around Oban.

 

North, Going North the Rush is on!

 

Saturday July 22 2017.

0700 Up, Well rested Tea, Check the weather. 1030 we get underway with the Tide and at 1050 we shut the engine off as we’re able to sail up the Sound of Mull.  After numerous engine cycles we arrived at Loch Drambuie at 1530. We found 3 other boats filling up the preferred Anchorage so we anchored in a small cove that was just the right size for our two boats.

We launched our dinghy and motored over to Chrystolyn for Happy Hour. We manage to travel 29 miles in 5 hours.

Sunday July 23 2017.

0700 the usual. Then over to Chrystolyn for a visit and enjoyed the quiet peace full morning. We returned to Kalinka 1.Got the dinghy back on board the got underway at  1300 to catch the North going tide to take us up around  Ardamurcharan Point and into our destination of Loch Moidart.

As we were approaching Ardamurcharan Point I saw a Minki Whale! The first in UK waters. It was beautiful day Blue skies and warm with light winds. We were able to sail some of the way but turned the engine on if the speed dropped below 4 knots.

We arrived at the entrance to the Loch at 1800 and followed Christolyn in as Dave had been here before and it was a crooked passage in and around numerous rocks and shallows. Finally arrive in at the anchorage to find 3 other boats there. Found what we thought was a good spot and dropped the hook.

We Anchored where we had a good view of the castle and where we would float when the tide dropped 4.5 metres. Also tied a trip line on the anchor as there was a cable somewhere under the water where we were. We launched the dinghy had dinner and went to bed.

Monday July 24 2017.

We woke up to boat dancing around in a whirlpool! Not a good thing and the trip line float had disappeared! The tide was ripping past at about 4 knots so we decided we would move to a quieter spot in a pool over by the castle.

The float surfaced.” Hmm” it’s on the wrong side of the boat. I can see the anchor rode going underneath the boat also. This isn’t looking good. I start hauling in the rode everything works, the boat swings around and the anchor comes up quite easy! Not what I was expecting! We motor over to the pool and drop the anchor in 17 feet. So even if it drops another 10 feet we will still float. Always a good thing in a boat. I can see bottom at 6 feet about 10 feet behind the boat. It’s sand. We’re sitting here enjoying the view when Chrystolyn motors over and drops a hook also. Dave and Dawn come aboard and we have a lunch of grilled cheese sandwiches. The water kept getting shallower both boats were dancing around in the tide and the wind was being funneled right into us so we decided to move back to the other anchorage but more to one side out of the eddies.

Once settled Sally and I decided to go on a mussel hunt. We got into the dinghy and motored into the shore as it was low tide time. Ran the dinghy into what we thought was a sandy bottom. Sally jumped out over the bow and promptly got stuck in deep stinky sticky black mud! Oh joy I couldn’t help laugh. This was not a good thing to do! She was able to unstick herself and move to a little harder ground and the I got out. She got to laugh at me so it all balanced out.  Awaiting us was a gazillion big mussels we could pick off the drying rocks. So we did and in short order we had a bucket full. We sloshed and slurped and sucked our way back to the dinghy tried to wash our sandals and feet before getting into the dinghy without much success. Made our way back to Kalinka 1 washed the mussels and Sally added oatmeal to some fresh sea water for Dinner later.

We then got back in the dinghy and motored over to the beach by the castle. The tide was out so you could walk all over on hard sand. I managed to catch 8 nice clams to add to the mussels for dinner. We all then walked up to the castle to explore what we could. The gate looked like it was all barred up but when we got to it we found that sometime in the past the lock had been broken off and we could go in. We all did but the others stopped in what was the courtyard while I wandered about up into what were once rooms and passage ways. A very interesting place. After this we returned to our boat.
Sally cleaned the mussels Dave came over and we got the bbq out of the lazzaret where it has lived for the last 5 years. We tried to take the mount off the stern rail but the stainless bolts had corroded in the aluminium bracket so they broke off when I tried to undo them! Bummer.  After about 3 hours we managed to get the bolts out and find 3 more that would fit. We’re back in business.

Dinner is on Chrystolyn so we load everything into the dink and power over. Mount the bbq onto daves stern rail. By this time we have all ready steamed the mssels and clams and took them over hot. They were our starter and everyone had a feed. Nice and fat and tasty! A great wonderfull finish to the day. We returned to Kalinka 1 and dropped off to Sleep

 

All around Oban.

 

Thursday July 20 2017.

Ha we slept in! Bonus.  When we all finally got up, we had a cooked breakfast prepared by the master chef Sally. I then had my hair done by the master barber Sally and then had a great hot shower.

Once all that was done we walked to Dunstaffnige  Castle where we found a Geo Cache and did the Castle.

The Castle was built in the 13 century as a MacDougal fort on a volcanic plug that dictated its shape. It overlooked a  water cross roads at the mouth of Loch Etive. It was captured by Robert the Bruce in 1309 and turned over to the Campbells in 1407. Garrisoned by Government forces in the 1745 rebellion where Flora MacDonald was held prisoner and destroyed by fire in 1810. It was partially rebuilt and used by the Caampbells into the 20^th century.

We read the return bus schedule wrong and I walked the whole way back to the boat. While Sally and Dianne managed to catch the bus almost out to the highway and went into Oban to Tesco’s to do some shopping.  They met Dawn in Tesco’s and shared a cab back to the Marina. Once back we all went to the wide mouthed frog for dinner. We got back to the boat late and exhausted.

Friday July 21 2017.

We all got up early as Dianne had to catch a cab to take her to the Train station as she was leaving us and going on the train to Mallaig,then to Glasgow and on to Edinberg.

Sally managed to get one load of washing done. At 0900 we met Dave and Dawn on Chrystolyn for a planning session as to where we were going to go. It was decided that we would go North to Loch Drambuie on Saturday. Returned to Kalinka1 and had a very easy lay about day as we were both shattered.

Iona

 

Wednesday July 19 2017.

0630 Up Quick cup of tea and then out the door and walk to the bus stop to catch the early Bus to Oban. Today is the Mull, Iona and  Staffa tour day. It’s raining and blowing a half hooly all ready. We get into town early enough that Sally and Dianne can go up to Tesco for sticky buns. I’m not up to it and settle for a Bacon and egg sandwich in the ferry terminal. We all met up in the waiting area and boarded the ferry for the ½ hour ride to the Island of Mull where we caught the tour bus for the drive out to Fionna Port.  The road is only a single track so we did a lot of stopping for others to pass us in both directions! The trip took over an hour to go approx.., 20 miles. Up hill down dale twisty curvy and a lot of fun. Double decker we sat downstairs amd stayed dry and warm. When the rain stopped and you could see the scenery was breath taking.

Mull is quite a large island and the main town is Tobermory on the North East corner. We were going to the far South West Corner.

We eventually arrived and there were numerous other buses parked near the small wharf. We were told to get off and wait on the right side of the landing for our boat that would take us up to staffa.

We waited in the rain and wind. Blowing a hooley and a half at this point. Had to deploy the special Tilley Hat holder on devices. A small boat shortly arrived. It was obvious that their were too many people for the one boat. No bother they told us to wait for ten minutes and another boat would come get us. 15 minutes later it did. We boarded. Sally and I got tucked up inside where we could stay dry! Most of the boat was open but the did supply rubber coats.

We were on our way  toot sweet and roared out through the Bull hole anchorage and then the fun began. We were now in the open ocean with nothing between us and North America! Guess where the wind was coming from! We’re now up to two hooly’s and six foot seas with 50 of our closest friends on a rolling tossing yawing speed boat. Anyone outside was drenched pretty quickly and they would stay that way for the duration as there was no dry room. And no room inside. Now some of the paying guest’s were beginning to experience  what real boating is like. The shades of green was simply amazing. But no turning back. About an hour later we were at the Island of Staffa. But couldn’t land as now it was blowing 3 hooly’s! In case your wondering that’s a lot of hooly’s or about 40- 45 knots of wind. We can’t land as the pier is being covered by BIG WAVES rolling continuously over it. So we do a drive by of Finnigan’s cave make a u turn in a hollow and after another hour or so and after more green people we arrived at the island of Iona.

Iona is a Holy Island and has a restored Abbey on it. The Abbey was started by St. Columba when he came over from Ireland to spread the word. He was buried in the Abbey but at some point dug up and parted out so other churches would have holy relics. About 45 of Scotland’s Kings were buried in the church grave yard. Their grave monuments are now on display in the museum.

So we get to the landing the same time as the BIG Ferry and shortly after our buddy boat and during the tooing and frowing we hit the bottom with a thump! Judicious use of horsepower managed to get us off and along side the pier so we could all disembark ( Sea talk for getting off the $#%# boat. For a lot a rapid change from grey/green to Healthy pink as soon as they were on solid ground. Take note I didn’t say dry. We walked up to the Abbey walked around saw the sights. Sally said a few prayers and pretty soon it was time to catch the last ferry out of Dodge.

I could have spent the whole day on the Island but that was not to be. We got back on the bus and repeated the trip out only backwards.

We arrived back in Oban got off the Ferry and went to the bust stop. We had an hour to wait for our bus back to Dunstaffnige. But we had a gift of the High School Pipe band was practicing in the square so we were entertained and the time just flew by even if it did rain some more.

After the birthday!

 

Saturday July 15 2017.

0700 Up. Sea Pilgrim underway for Port Ellen. We all say goodbye and watch them disappear into the driving rain. We had checked the weather and decided to stay one more day for the weather to clear. Crystalyn decided the same. Did some small jobs(there are always small jobs on a boat to keep one occupied!)  I had taken the outboard off and hoisted the dinghy onto the deck and made everything ready for sea. Dave came over and we went over to Crystalyn for larder stew and Uno. Had a blast and Dave drove us home in one trip as the wind had died down.

Sunday July 16 2017

0800 up, tea, puttering. 1030 raised the main and Sally sailed off the mooring!  Sally not feeling well but we had a grand sail up the sound of Jura with 1 reef in the main and the full 130% head sail. We even managed to catch and pass one other boat. Bonus. We arrived at Tayvallich at 1500 only to find it full! Bummer. We sailed up Loch Sween a little further to the anchorage at Fairy isles. It was empty so we followed Crystalyn in snd anchored in 12 feet of clear water. I put the dinghy in the water and went for an explore and had Dave and Dawn over for dinner. Fun times. A very nice anchorage and would like to return some day.

Monday July 17 2017.

0600 Tea time.  Short scope the anchor while crew get’s themselves up! We get it hoisted and secured by 0700 and motor out of the anchorage. Saw 8 Seals sunning themselves on the rocks and at 0830 we altered course to head for Ardfern. Hoisted the sail and had a very nice sail making 7.4 knots sog until 1115 when we dropped the sails and motored into Ardfern Marina. Passing Princess Anne’s boat on the way in. Secured at the fuel dock and took on 75.5 litres of fuel. Made our way from there to our assigned pontoon and got squared away. Had a nice lunch of soup and then went walk about and found a geo cache right where it was supposed to be. Girls did a laundry and we all went out for a pub dinner of fish and chips. Sally worked out the tides for tomorrow and time for our departure.

Tuesday July 18 2017

0430! I don’t like this but get up anyway on a rainy wet morning. Note left by Dawn they are not leaving as they have an oil leak in the gearbox! Bummer. We leave anyway at 0520 to catch a fair tide going through Doris Mor a really wild passage you don’t want to be near if you get it wrong! We see lots of seals and birds and get there a little early but that was OK as we went through at flat water. By the time we were up to the Sound of Luing we were getting a little wind against tide effect but it didn’t slow us down one bit.

We motored through the sound of Karrera and past Oban where the new pontoons were in place but not open yet! They were waiting for the new office complex to be finished first. Wouldn’t you think they could have put an Office trailer on the pier and opened for business at a reduced rate and had a season of paying  customers who would have contributed to the cost of the facilities? Nope. So we continued on our way and arrived at Dunstaffnige. Secured on the assigned pontoon C7 and then off to Oban to the Tourist Office and West coast tour company where we booked a tour of Mull Iona and Staffa. We also looked for a geo cache on the pier but too many muggles around and the location was fenced off anyway. We went for Ice cream and then a local store for some veggies and we returned to the boat for a dinner of fried potatoes and mince an ratatouie. Sally got lunch together for tomorrow and off to bed we went.

Glasgow to Ghia

Monday July 10 2017 0730.

I’m up so I put the kettle on, boil the water ,put one tea bag in the pot, pouring  the boiling water and make a pot of tea. The crew arouse themselves and after tea they go off to the city. I do the engine checks, transmission. Oil and coolant and belt. All OK so I go to the museum before the crowds arrive and see all the things I missed yesterday. We all get back to the boat by 1130 and we are underway by 1210 for the ride on the tide out the river. It’s dark grey, cold and a heavy rain pelts us as we motor past Greenock. We head to Rothesay as the weather wasn’t the best and we could do a walk about and a little food shopping.

We arrived at 1710. Sally and Dianne went off to the tourist office and by the time I got ashore they were disappeared! I went to the co-op grocery store and waited outside. No luck so I went back to the boat. They both arrived shortly after.  We had dinner and then showed Dianne the town.

Tuesday July 11 2017 0530!

You read that right 0530!! Guess who is up and makes the tea? We cast off our lines and get underway at 0700 to get through the kyles at slack water.

The Kyles are a very narrow passage between the Isle of Butte and the mainland with currents of up to 6 or 7 knots and it is not a strait through passage so we wanted to be there at slack high water so when through and the tide turned we could run down the coat to Tarbert with it.

This we did on a very nice day and got to see someDolphins, birds and seals along the way. We arrived at Tarbert at 1045 found an open pontoon slid in and secured the boat. We then went walk about. Met our friends Dave and Dawn from Crystalyn (we met them two years ago first in Tobermory and then Oban and we ran into them literally in the Crinan Canal and we’re still friends).  D and D had seen us and made reservations at  the Starfish Restaurant for 1930. We did a little shop Local eggs and cheese then showers (well needed) and  Happy hour at 1830 on Kalinka 1 . We all 5 of us had a leisurely  stroll over to the restaurant and had a superb dinner. I had the sea food stroganoff, Sally had crab toes, Sea food curry. Dianne had fish and salad. We all wobbled back to our respective vessels! Tomorrow is going to be a long day so slummberland.

At one time the whole Western part of Scotland was owned by Norway! Chiefly because of a Viking named Magnus Bare legs or Hairy legs depending on who is telling the story.  The story goes that at Tarbert a long time ago Magnus was discussing politrics  with a Scottish King. As happens when people talk about politrics a few meads were consumed (To early for whiskey to be invented). So a bet was made and a deal struck that Magnus could have all the land he could sail around. Well the next day off Magnus went and dragged his Long ship  across the narrow bit of land dividing Tarbert from West Tarbert.  He got a whole lot of land! Then a few hundred years later Norway deciding they really didn’t want Scotland because of all the Jimmy’s gave it back. Magnus is still spinning (verified by the whirlpool we were anchored in later in the story)

 

Wednesday July 12 2017 0500!

Hope this early morning stuff doesn’t become a habit? Do the usual tea ceremony and we’re off at 0530 for the trip around the Mull of Kintyre to the Island of Gigha.

A pretty much uneventful trip to Campbell town where we were going to stop for fuel. A bright sunny day. We arrived at Campbell town and met Sea Pilgrim coming out! Entered the harbor had a look at the steel piling wall where the fuel bowser was and decided life was too short and turned about and headed back out onwards to Gigha. We left the Harbour and got the main up and motored out to Sanda Island to check the anchorage in case we can’t get around the Mull. Nice spot will maybe stop here on our way South. We get to the Mull and get the head sail unfurled and have a very nice sail The tide turned and we were in the overfalls with the standing waves beginning to form! We sailed on and were soon in smooth water again and up to Gigha where we all take moorings. Sea Pilgrim comes in much later.

Thursday July 13 2017.

Get up before everyone else. Do the usual. Then we put the dinghy in the water mount the outboard and zoom ashore. We all (Tony,Anne Sea Pilgrim)( Dave and Dawn Crystalyn) (Sally, Dianne and I Kalinka 1) all meet at the landing around . It’s decided to rent bicycles and go for a ride. What the heck it’s an island what can go wrong?

Get personally fitted for an 18 speeder Sally and Dianne get 7 speeders. Tony get’s a girls bike because that’s all they had left. So it begins.

We leave the shop head up the hill. Yup right off the bat uphill. This does not bode well. Waiting at the top,,,,,,,,,,,No Tony! Wait some more,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, He arrives. All scraped up. He fell off but seems OK. We ride North pretty much all up hill on our way to the Giant’s Tooth! (A standing stone next to the road) We finally arrive and then the hunt for the geo cache begins. 7 of us looking for a ½ hour and we can’t find it! Check the logs and it hasn’t been found in over a year! We declare it gone. We saddle up and continue our journey North. Not many hills that I make to the top of riding the bike! We arrive at the North end of the Island. It was worth the ride.  We turn around to head South. Another uphill start! I get ½ way up. Before I can get leg over bar to get off I come to a stop, get leg over step down foot goes in hole, I follow. Everyone laughs before checking to see if I’m all right! I’m laughing to so must be ok. Get back on even if it’s not a horse and we huff and puff our way back to town. Stop for an Ice cream. Everyone else game to go to South end. I’m persuaded. We head off. Get to junction with road to Ogam stone. I quit. Return bikes Everyone else back while still in shop. South half obviously shorter than North half! Returned to the boat. Beat.

Friday July Sally’s day 2017.

The usual but not early.  I do some boat jobs Crew get’s ansy they want to go ashore no one asks me. We go ashore do the walk about thing. Reservations made for dinner at the boat house. We all meet on Crystalyn for drinks and then  ashore for Sally’s birthday dinner. Great time had by all!! A late night full of laughs not at my expence! So ends the chapter.