Fair Isle

Fair Isle,

A Gem of  a magical place. Arrival was following a hazy lazy motor boat run with the tide from Lerwick to a hole in a rock. The electronic charts lack land contour lines of shore features, they would have helped.  We never fully trust the charts and rely on what we can see as real…there was nothing there…no entrance, no marks, no smell of burning peat, no signs of humanity and we were about 1/2 mile out of the only harbour?? Must have faith and proceed so we did…eventually spying about 6 masts of other boats so in we went dead slow only to find that this was not ideal as the currents were swirly so needed more speed right when we were coming to a dead end….well we made it and rafted along a boat from Kirkwall that was a charter boat being used by a Grandfather teaching his grandsons sailing. Then another boat’s mast appeared behind the rocks and yet another after that, we had seen neither on our way….

Nesting Fulmars, sea weed eating sheep and one road yet 11 cars, 1 tractor and a flat bed truck met the ferry the next day and we know that there were another 2 cars at least on the island., + the one that they loaded onto the ferry that was going for its warranty service work.

We saw sheep being fleeced and met a lady who was all excited as she and her partner had been granted the croft the month before. She cooks for the bird observatory and he crews on the 1x/week ferry. I figure the house may have been what they were after as 8 acres and 25 sheep just can not be viable their new dog will cost more to feed then the yield of the lambs each year.

The one shop was closed when we got there but had a public loo (most welcome) complete with condoms and sex ed info.

We stayed 2 nights and celebrated my birthday that was a lovely sunny windy day and we walked the length of the island and ended by rubber boat dingy pot holing in the shore caves. A seal we disturbed belched offence at our presence and launched himself directly at us so we backed out to the sun and found another  cave to explore. 

That evening Sea Pilgrim rafted along side and the two boats have been sailing together for a week since. Good company and boat of similar speed and daily cruising range. 

Shetland

Tues. July 7 2015 Balta Sound Shetland Islands.

0330 UP! No rest for the Innocent or the wicked for that matter. Woken up by the wind or more correctly by the lack of wind!  Sally roused up and we made tracks at 0400 with two reefs in the main 0500 unfurled the Jib and at 0730 shook out the reefs  and made 6.5 knots OG (over the ground as opposed to Speed through the water) Wind freshened through the morning and at 1030 we entered Lerwick harbour and spied an open spot on a pontoon just big enough for us. We slid into it just like we knew what we were doing! Got secured. Then the rain started and the North wind picked up. Checked in at harbour office returned to boat wind started to howl and PINNED us to the pontoon! We couldn’t get out for 3 days! Had every fender we owned on the starboard side of the boat. NOT NICE.

Wed. July 8 2015 After a horrible night not sleeping and bouncing around. Sally actually went out to the settee in the Salon(Not the saloon where we probably should have spent the night). The Border Security Person ( A very nice lady) arrived at 1030 after being promised a cup of tea. Cleared us in didn’t ask about alcohol or anything ( No one brings excess from Norway so why ask?) took our passports away to be officially stamped  then returned them about 2 hours later. Went up to the tourista Office for brochures and bus times then off to the Museum for some culture. Sally had found her Good Seico watch that she thought she had lost last year.(Just put in a Super Secure Safe Place!) so we took it to a Jewlery store for a new battery and repair to the band! Battery worked band didn’t .Had a very nice lunch at the museum. I (Noel) bought a new pair of pants, work black.

Thurs. Jul 9 2015.

Wind shifted during the night! Oh Joy able to sleep!! Flat boat blown away from the pontoon. Breakfast consisted of Bacon and eggs! Whowzer Yummy!!! Went to the sailing club for showers  Mass exodus form the harbour as a short window for Norway! We’re going the other way so no window or door for that matter for us. We’re stuck again. So we took the bus to the south end of the Island to Jarlshoff. A Neolithic village site underneath and next to a later Broach(Scottish round tower only found in Scotland with an inner and out wall with passages and stair cases between the walls) and a medieval castle all in ruins. The neat part we could wander around with a recorded commentary on what we were looking at and could actually touch and pick up the stone artifacts. And enter the buildings. There was also a Viking Long house and out buildings. Very interesting. We’re becoming experts at spotting all this stuff as we sail/motor along the coasts. Maybe should get a job as an antiquities spotter?  Returned to the boat at the end of the day had dinner and off to the club for a pint.

Fri. July 10 2015 Lerwick Shetland Islands.

Still here! Wind still wrong So we fueled the boat just in case and off we went on another bus to Skalloway to the Shetland bus museum. A really interesting place all about the fishing boats going back and forth to Norway during the war and taking supplies and people in and a whole lot out.  As I learned this summer from a cousin my father either got out by the bus or by crossing overland to Sweden. Wandered around the town in Shetlandish sunshine otherwise known as their idea of light rain. (Not blowing horizontal) . Back at the boat  by 1900 and then up to club with Michael and Anna from Dalliance for a pint and showing them how to load the charts into their ipad. Earned me a pint!

Sat. July 11 2015 Guess!

Went to the Tourist Office got tickets for the cancer society bus tour caught the bus at 1000 and off we went to Eshaness headland for the view and return to the rec centre for soup and sandwiches. Got a job offer from the driver and owner of the bus company! Have been here too long!

Sunday July 12 2015. You guessed it.

Went to the Harbour Office to checkout. Checked weather not recommended to leave so we didn’t. Sally off to Kirk I had some Off Sally  strike that I meant down time.  Had a walk about and a bigg Sunday dinner.

Monday July 13 2015 we’ve had enough!!!

0930 Cast off, gone, on our way, departed and left! Motoring in a lumpy left over sea for Fair Isle. Arrived at 1700 after an uninteresting day.

The Westward crossing

Sat. July 4 2015 Fosnavag Norway. Happy Birthday USA.

We spent the day wandering about, Long walk and climb up a mountain for an elusive geo cache and a stupendous view over the harbour.  When we returned to the boat a large ship entered the harbour and tied up hoisted a bunch of flags erected a stage and made ready for a party! So I went to find out what was going on.

It was a brand new shiny paint still drying research ship that was going to be Christened and we could go for a self guided by ourselves tour! Didn’t have to ask twice so up we climbed and up we climbed wandering in and out until we reached the helicopter pad. Walked out on it and looked a way way way down to the water far far below. Went back down a couple of decks to the 360 degree bridge wandered around in there admiring all the equipment and electronics and then made our way to the aft deck where the ROV’s were stored. Looked at them and then left the ship The naming took place at 1600 with a marching band and dignitaries and everything. We returned to kalinka1 had a bite to eat waited for the forcasted drop in and change of direction of the wind and got under way for The Shetland Islands at 2000 hours.

Underway with a Norsk bat Alora with Johnny and Thor (pronounced Yonny and Tura) accompanying us. Started off with a great breeze keeping our speed above 6 knots and sometimes7 knots under double reefed main and ¾ jib.  big seas but going with us so not so bad most of the time except off Statt where they were not so nice but that didn’t last too long.  Had to alter course for a fishing boat and a cruise ship which made things interesting for a while. Sally went down about 2200 and left everything to me!

Sun. July 5 2015somewhere in the North Sea.

0200. Having a way too much fun so woke Sally up. It was her turn anyway! By now the wind haad dropped enough that we had to start the engine genuflected and sang the benediction canted all the right words of appeasement and turned the key,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Vrrroooooommm. I did,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, just to make you all sweat! Engine always started. Hehe got you!!! So we motored most of the way across the North Sea and through the Oil rig forests in the fog. Sometimes heavy sometimes heavier and sometimes sliceable. 0700 my turn again. So up I sprung . Jibed the main and motor sailed through my watch. Sally up at 1230. 1600 I sprung up and at 1630 we had a Sally special for dinner Ground beef Medaly. Finally cleared the rig field about 2300 AIS and Radar really helped here!

Mon. July 6 2015 0000 Somewhere in Scottish waters. Well Actually at 61*07.295’N Lat. 000*27.410’E Lon. Watch change Crossed the prime meridian on Sally’s watch at 0236. Now back on our side of the world and I slept blissfully through it! 0420 shut engine down, 0430 2 reefs! 0640 engine on 0700 Balta Sound 0800 anchored!  217 miles 27.7 hours on the engine  36 hours from cast off to anchor down. Had oatmeal breakfast and then slept the sleep of the innocent through a dull windy day. So ends this chapter.

Bud to fosnavaag and everything in between part 2

Thurs. July 1 2015 Happy birthday Canada!!!! Slept in went for a walk to information centre and museum and café all in the same building. Returned to find another boat rafted to us. No problem. Filled with spring water heavy winds and rain! Don’t you just love summer!!

Fri July 2 2015 0630 up did the usual.  Weather report Awfull so no crossing today.  Decided to go to Fosnavag as needed some supplies and minibank  left at 115 and arrived at 1215. Rafted to the boat that was rafted onto us in Runde . The boat behind left so we warped back onto the pontoon.( Warping if you didn’t know is not a state of mind well not in this instance anyway, but the procedure of moving a vessel by the use of ropes (warps) alone.) secured went walk about had a shower the entrance to which was through an underground garage to the shopping centre.

Bud to Fosnavaag and everything in between

Sunday June 28 2015.

I think yesterday afternoons pint was better than Sally’s Kafe. But I’m sure she would disagree. So I won’t go any further with that. I arose at my becoming usual time of 0700 instead of the previous usual time of 0600 did the usual morning chores which you should all know by now so I will not repeat  them.

At 0815 we finally got under way for the passage to Alesund. At 0830 turned the engine off. I almost wrote killed the engine but that would not have been very nice as the present engine has done absolutely nothing to warrant being killed. In fact I sing praises to it everyday just before  turning the key. However sometimes it’s nice not to have to listen to it purr.

We hoisted the sails and had a wonder full  sail for 33 miles to downtown Alesund where we arrived at 1530 and  found a berth on a pontoon within walking distance of everything. Went off to the Tourist information office and booked a tour on Monday to Geirangerfjord. We learned our lesson last year. No going all the way in, in our own boat. The rest of the day we just wandered around did a couple of geo caches a bit of shopping and when we returned to the boat there was a couple admiring it so Sally invited them on board for a cup of tea which of course they accepted. They were from Munich had been going to join a boat as crew to sail up the coast but the skipper hurt his back so trip cancelled so they flew to Alesund anyway because the flight had already been payed for and they were just touring around so Sally told them about the trip to Geirangerfjord and a road and what was happening in the town and all about the Aquarium and Trondheim their next stop and I’m getting winded typing all this at the same speed Sally was talking. They went on their way and we next saw them in? Yup Geiranger they drove there. Which brings us to.

Monday June 29 2015.

We took the trip to Geirangerfjord. Stated on a Bus then a ferry then a the bus to the cruiseboat then the cruise down the Geirangerfjord to Geiranger and the a bus back to Alesund. Great scenery met a bunch of interesting people A couple from India and a Mother and Daughter from Russia. Walked about the town tried for a couple of geo caches poured rain got wet had a kafe and sticky bun and a pint. Patio’s all have gas heaters all around so wet clothes steaming all around as everyone was enjoying the great outdoors! Did the return trip all the way on the bus.

Tuesday June 30 2015. A quiet walk about day doing geo caching Police and customs Passport leaving stamp sorting charts and cruising guides, visit from Munich and Russians.

Wed. June 31 2015.

0630 Up did the usual went to harbor for a geo cache no luck they closed the pier as a cruise ship was coming in! Went to the fisheries museum. Quite interesting all about herring. Decided to leave and left at 1600 and motored to the Island of Runde a longish voyage of 15 miles! We managed to survive and landed at 1845.

Under the Atlantic Highway

Sat. June 27 2015

Since I finished the last entry by going to sleep, I thought I would start this one by waking up. Which I did at 0700. I did the usual morning thing by filling the kettle putting it on the cooker (stove for those of you who haven’t been to the UK or married to someone from there) Lighting the big burner. It heats quicker than the middle burner or the small burner so we use the Big burner for most things that need a lot of heat. After a short time in which I checked 4 sources of weather. Yr.No, Zigrib passage weather and Ugrib. The kettle came to a boil and I transferred the boiling water to the teapot in which I had previously carefully placed a Barry’s Diesel tea bag. I then put the two cosy’s on the tea pot to keep it warm as it steeped. I then gently woke Sally up. By the time she was out and dressed the tea was cold! Not really I was just funning with you. She bounded up dressed lickety split, The tea was at a perfect temperature. So we had a cup.

We then cast off our lines and motored over to the fuel pontoon inserted the magic plastic and fueled up. By 0845 we were underway out of the harbor at the same time a rather large Oil Rig boat was backing away from a pier, this made life a little interesting until I figured out what he was doing. We then continued on our way down the Kornstafjord and out to and under the Atlantic Highway.

The plan was to head to Haholmen where an old Viking lived. He built Viking ships and sailed them all over including around the world and had a Viking ship construction yard and museum. We wended(a word describing a torturous passage)  in amongst big and little rocks into a pool that the only way out of was to retrace our route. A very nice feature of a charting program is the get out of here safe button which I pushed and we extricated ourselves. I then scratched my head trying to figure out how to get into the harbor. Decided life was too short and since it didn’t look like anyone was home anyway we decided to head on our way South to Bud which we last visited last year on the way North.

We arrived in Bud at 1600 entered the harbor and of course it was blowing stink hmmm might be the reason everyone was running away? As we were entering and just before the smooth water the furling line decided to add a little more excitement to the proceedings by getting an over ride so that the sail would only roll part way! Not fun. So as Captain I delegated the job of going foreward to clear it to my crew. An immediate mutiny took place with the result that I tried again from the cockpit and was able to pull it free. We went alongside the pontoon with no further difficulties secured the boat and went walk about to the grocery store returned and then went to the restaurant for a pint and a kafe.

Nice and friendly

Wed. June 24 2015 0430

Good morning world! (it has to be better than the night we just had) got up put the kettle on made a pot of tea. (I always get up and put the kettle on and make the tea. But I’m the Captain I shouldn’t have to do this should I? I know I know a rhetorical question. Got the anchor up no problem and away we went on another looooonnnngggg motorboat ride. I almost typed moronboat  now that would be some ride. But I digress. The ride was soooo llooonnggg, How long you ask? Well long enough for both the Captain(me) and the Admiral(Sally) to have a decent nap on the way.  As boat rides go I’d give it an 8 Bright sun and reasonably warm(No need for snuggies) decent scenery and lots of boat traffic to keep one awake.

After 9.5 hours we arrived at our predetermined destination.  Vaggen Island. We wended our way into the anchorage through the marked narrow channel think two boat length’s wide with a depth of 7 feet into a very sheltered bay. We were raced in by a Swedish boat that we had last seen in the middle of an anchorage further up the coast. Did the same thing here Anchored right in the centre off the South shore pretty much preventing anyone else anchoring there. No bother for us as I had picked a spot further in, in shallower water. (Makes it easier on the wenchlass ) and better protection from the forcasted wind. Earlier in the day we had stopped to do some fishing as we both were hankering for a feed. Spent about 15 minutes and hauled up a 3 pounder (Torsk) filleted it fed the gulls continued on our way. So we had it for dinner. Yummie. Early to Bed. Both of us were beat and what the heck we’re cruising right? This is not a delivery repeat to self This is not a delivery!

Thursday June 25 2015. Awoke at the usual time. Said to heck with it rolled over annoyed Sally and went back to sleep.zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzWoke up the second time got up put the kettle on made the tea woke Sally up when the tea was steeped had breakfast Scrambled eggs and bacon followed by home made cinnamon buns  yummie yummie. Spent the rest of the day doing little jobs, Put the jack lines on (webb  lines running along both sides of the boat from the stern to the bow that we can hook our safety tethers to when it gets rough and at night so that if we fall over the side we will stay attached to the boat.) Sally did some sewing we both played some cribbage (tied game) and read.

Friday June 26 2015 at the civilized hour of 0745 we got underway  to a drizzly, foggy day No scenery unless you like different shades of Grey (No not the book!) Motored all the way except for about the last 10 miles and arrived in Kristiansund at 1825. The visitors pontoon was rafted 4 deep all the pontoons were full So went into the sailing club saw an empty slip pulled in secured the boat, saw a member on the dock asked about staying there as it was a private club. No problem and no charge! Well a very pleasant surprise.  Went for a stroll well a little longer than a stroll actually. We were on a mission to find stamps and a post office so Sally could mail some post card that she had written back in the anchorage on the lay day. I didn’t want to go, but went anyway(You all know how it is so no explanation necessary) First went to the 7/11 (alive and well in Norway) no luck but the young man there directed us to the Remi store. We hike down there past motorboat row A walk of 27 miles staggered into the shop bought the stamps stuck them on the cards and mailed them all in a grocery store just before closing at 2200 (10pm). This country is civilized! Of course then we had to walk all the way back to the boat.

It was still light out so we wandered over to the boatyard/Museum to have a look around and then back on board, put my sore feet up and called it a night.

Unfriendlies and Misserable

Monday June 22 2015

So because some one said it was worth whiled to go outside around Leka we did and it was. We motored around on an early calm morning and made our way  to Rorvik where we stopped at the fuel dock and filled up with diesel and picked up 4 litres of engine oil to do an oil change. Then motored around into the Bathavn.

This was fun, a motor boat raced us in and tired up at the very end of the visitor’s pontoon leaving very little room for us to get in in front of him! The other side another power boat had done the same thing! Neither would pull foreward to allow us to moor! We motored around in the harbor against and with a building wind to make things interesting in the narrow fairways. Eventually some men from the boating club motioned us to come in in front of the first powerboat and they would catch our lines and keep us off the rocks that were about 2 feet to our port side. So sally and I looked at each other and went for it.

Anti climatic with all the help we slipped in there like we did this all the time. Had a whiskey to slow the heart rate.

After that I emptied out the sail locker to gain access to the oil pump and filter drained the oil and while I was doing that Sally was decanting the 4 litre container into 1 litre ones. This makes it possible to get the new oil into the engine. Not enough room to pour from a 4 litre jug. Managed to do the job in about a half hour as opposed to the 4 it took us the frst time with the new engine(Which is no longer new but still running great)

Went shopping for food  and I went to the Navionics dealer for some help with the tablet. It had become very very slow to the point where it took all day to do anything and it was impossible to use. Lucky we had Sally’s and used it. The dealer couldn't help suggested we needed to buy a new one. Didn’t like that idea so left and thought about the problem. Then Sally mentioned the tracks. The Bulb went on and I checked and the track function had been on for about a thousand miles! I started the process of deleting them! 24 hours later everything working again!! Moral don’t use tracks or delete  every day! What happens is that the program updates from the beginning every time so it just gets bogged down and has no memory left for anything else. When we returned to the boat the power boat was getting under way and there was another one hovering! Likety split we undid the foreward going spring and bow line and as he was backing out we were hauling  the boat back to the end of the pontoon. No moss growing on us. The incoming power boat wasn’t too happy, Tough patooey. Had another whiskey went to bed.

Tues. June 23 2015 0915.

Might have been one too many whiskey’s Slept in until 0800! Oh my!! But we managed to get underway with no problems and the weather was cloudy and cold with some rain but no wind so we motored to Villa Havn.

Villa Havn is a small Island that’s main claim to faim is that it has a coal burning Light House! We got there with no issues wended our way into the harbor found the pontoon secured along side and commenced the walk to the light house which of course was on the other side of the Island. No inhabitants around so we set off following what I thought was the trail Saw some sheep and a pair of small red deer running away from us, guess we should have had that shower. Anyway we arrived at the light house only to find it locked up tighter than the mint.  Looked around for the hidden key but no luck so took some pictures and did the long walk back. This time we followed the proper trail The one Sally pointed out!. A lot easier and dryer! Had lunch and got  under way and made our way to Ramsoya where we anchored in the same place we had last year and had a miserable rolling bouncing night!

Leka

Fri. June 19/15.Sailing!!

So I woke up at 0430! There was an odd absence of sound and motion Took me a minute or 2 to figure it out.,,,,,,,,,,,,Then I jumped up used the onboard facilities put the kettle on to replace the liquids lost and Holy cow no wind! Forcast sort of wrong or late Who cares I said to myself. Roused out the crew Tossed off the lines started the engine picked up the lines because they were mine and off we motored for 10 miles then ever so sneaky the water began to ripple the flag began to flutter and we unrolled the jib 10 minutes later we raised the main shut off the engine and We’re sailing! 67 miles later after a 12 hour sail we anchored after 3 tries in an anchorage on Hjartoya. Slept the sleep of the innocent.

Sat. June 20/15 0500 I’m beginning to not like 24 hours of daylight. We leave the anchorage and so much for sailing 1800 rpm and 7 hours later we tied up in Bronersund topped up the dongle and left for Leka.

We reached Leka to a great welcome and help tying up as of course the wind had to start blowing! Had an early night. Had a very good nights sleep and even slept in late. Don’t ask how late! Showers and laundry. Laundry took ALL Day to do 3 loads phooey so we grabbed a couple of the free bikes and off we went to do a geo cache and look at some of the Viking tombs. Have I told you about Viking tombs?  Well,,, I’m going to. They’re all made out of stones.(at least the ones they didn’t set adrift and burn. But of course those were ships or boats so not really tombs so it doesn’t matter.)

Anyway, Stones, lots and lots of stones, Big ones, medium ones and not so medium ones but no little one. All carried up hill to the spot with the best view. Since the country is all stone underneath 7 inches of dirt no hole is dug.(today they use explosives) So the dead guy gets laid out with all his worldly belongings (the worn out broken ones) What does a dead guy need good stuff for? Then they pile all the rocks on top of him to make a big round pile of rocks. Some of them old people had a warped sense of humor though. They just piled up the rocks and stones knowing full well that someone in the future would go to all the trouble of uncovering them all only to find nothing! Anyway we got up to 20 rock piles all opened upand one really big one that had been opened but that they think might contain a ship burial.

So by now your tired of rock stories so I’ll continue with some more boating . Monday June 22/15 Up and away early in the morning and headed North to go out and around the Island as the West side is completely different from the East. West looks like the Old West in Arizona and the Cowboy movies Red Rock in all kinds of shapes. While the East is Farm land. Had a nice MB ride around and then got back on course for the South.