Episode 18 Stornoway Stornoway

Episode 18 Stornoway Stornoway 

We departed for Iceland at 06:00.

10:00 we got the up dated forecast. It was hard to believe so we checked it again. Ugh this is not good. 

10:30 Turned back to Stornoway. 

The problem was the joining of two low pressure systems into what they called a "super low" that would hover over Iceland and slowly come East to Scotland. We would have had one day fair sailing and four or five of nasty strong head winds. Life is too short for that. 

Dolphins came by after we had turned to head back in, we figured that was a good omen and they defiantly were cheering us up.

 We were having a lovely sail, shook out the reef and then...the tide changed, the wind shifted and increased so we reefed the main, and then furled the jib and motor sailed into square waves with the wind against the tide.  

47 NM  round trip to a different pontoon in Stornoway.  We did however get things accomplished. The water generator worked, we did not have this working when we crossed over in 2012. Noel identified that the wind vane was on back to front. - both good things to have established/figured out and sorted out.  

 Entering the harbour keeping out of the ferry's way. 

 Passing goat island new marina and travel lift. 

 Lovely day for a sail when you could avoid wind against the tide conditions rounding headlands. 

 One of the five very well fed harbour seals.(below the tire)

Past the fuel dock.

Heading into the pontoon, past Young Larry who's previous owners we have met and saw their new boat hauled out in New Ross when we were there earlier this summer.

 Noel freeing up ceased snatch blocks. Its hard, we have invested a lot in this weather routing system so would be madness to have ignored the information that it provided....

 The Danish boats that we had been beside earlier came and helped with our lines when we returned. (This photo was from before we left). Rasine has the same weather routing system. He later came and mentioned that he was discussing with his wife that this technology keeps us safer and helps us make smarter well....more informed decisions. 

The next day the wind arrived. Off we went to see the stones by bus.  

 The Sanding Stones on Lewis. Big people used them to sharpen their knives!

This helped explain the odd lay out of the stones. having been to Orkney and Shetland we feel we have become standing stone snobs. Well one of us.   from the bus window, a rainbow, you can see it? 

 Beautiful beaches, too windy to enjoy.

 Wild day. 

The next day we took the bus south to Harris and then further south to the ferry dock and back. 

We had lunch in Harris and walked about.  

Another distillery that did not distill... the Danish boats were here before us and thought it amusing that no distillation happened on site. It was very well marketed and can be purchased in Toronto. 

 The scots will tell you there is nothing more "cute" then a calf. They love them. What I know about them our buddy Bruce who we met at Northern Yacht Club in Sidney NS told us. They are tough and have little need for intervention to survive and to deliver their calf's. Perfect for the wilds of Scotland. 

 Went to Lewis castle twice, the second time it was open so we went to the museum that featured a lot of information (not so positive) about the land clearances. 

The photo is the entrance way double doors with a clock - thought that was interesting. 

 We did a day trip to Ullapool on the ferry.

 That's a trailer of bicycles. They market cycling holidays with luggage transport. Interesting that its a passenger van with a trailer. Tells us lots that.

Front row seats upon the return..  

 Thought this a lovely memorial, there are reflectors that show the white makers. 

 Hurtigruten cruise ship. We go to the most sought after destinations. 

 When we went to the castle,  they were preparing for a music festival on the week end.. We will be hearing the music in the harbour.

Youth band warm up before their performance at the festival. 

 Route to the castle up stream from the harbour. 

 Rowing Scotland youth adventures. They seemed to be well sponsored. 

Passing the Aminty House, the official harbour masters office where our antenna got delivered too. 

 Fish farm vessel from Norway.

 Harbour control office, where the harbour masters work from - A very great bunch, these people. 

So last time we tried we did 47 NM to nowhere... This time we got the fenders away and main sail up and just before we would have shut down the engine it died....all on its own...starved of fuel. 

What do do....?

Back we go. 

Called the Harbour Master to let him know we would be sailing back in...We were sailing beautifully and starting to hang fenders both port and starboard because you never know when it hits the fan what you will need. Sailing is preparing for everything to go wrong hoping nothing will. 

The harbour master was on the same page. He got the fishing vessel Pegasus from the Shetlands to take us under tow and bring us along side their pilot boat. He was taking no chances.

 Plugged filter. The jam that came out was like grainy mustard!

Noel quick as wink had the fuel filters changed out to new ones.... 

Well for some mysterious reason the tank pick up seemed to be plugged. Out it came, wire was pushed up through and we cleared the blockage of a rubbery goo.....this is not good. Our tank was full, all the deck jugs full we were heading to Iceland....Ugh....Words fail me.

 The quarter berth with our chart dry storage.

All this kit had been stowed in the quarter berth.

  Finally breakfast, Ginger Flapjacks, we will not be saving them for our crossing just simply enjoying them as they are meant to be enjoyed.  

 Extricating the bunk board of the quarter berth

Nearing the end of their shift the HM's use the pilot boat to get us into the inner harbour. We will need some help getting this problem sorted. Not much on board is beyond Noel's skills but this fuel issue is. 

 Fuel tank and cabin heat furnace duct work exposed. This is what makes the perfect dry space for charts and spare engine filters. Many luxury yachts would be envious, we are absolutely sure. 

We can remove the side of the companionway cabin stairs engine cover for greater access...the trick is remembering that the stairs have been removed before departing the bridge deck. This is the second time that I've the bruises as a reminder.( BIG PURPLE GREEN ONES) 

 We had a call into a mechanic, while we waited we patched our winter cover that is in three parts we mended / patched two of the three parts before the sewing machine did a header off the cockpit seat and ceased to function.  

The life boat got tasked twice that day...we called mechanic and he had forgotten us and suggested we call his competition. Disappointing that.

 Lovely still evening. 

Perfect for rowing

The harbour masters provided us with about nine jugs that had been full of the blue additive needed for new diesel engines so we had something to decant our full tank of diesel.  Angus of Tier Na Nug a thirty two foot boat had 12 volt diesel pump on board. He was so disappointed that his school buddy mechanic let us down that he helped us empty our tank.. There was lots of sand and silt in the bottom + some gooey stuff. 

MacMillan Engineering had promised us they would be by likely before lunch and see what we needed. Angus and Noel had the tanks empty and then Angus took his pumps back to his boat. We thought we would see him again but he was off back home to Lochinvar before we could say thank you. What a wonderful man. He works as a deep sea oil tanker skipper and had brought ships into New Ross. He figured we were better to get the boat back to EU for the winter. 

 Noel fishing with coat hanger.

The goo... well some of what blocked the up take.

 When we had removed this aft cover the gasket material was all cobwebby and degraded. MacMillan Engineering, Colin had small pressure washer and oil extractor suction pump and then new gasket material so all could be put back together.  

 Fuel tank base cover back in place.

 The charts and bunk board soon to be placed back into place. 

Our Canadian charts to be stowed. 

 Bunk board in place and now for the cushion.

 Treated ourselves to lunch out. Boat is fit and ready to move again. 
  But 1st we must do the last remaining bus route, just so we have not missed anything. Out past the airport to the North and East of Stornoway and back again. We found this the most interesting as it was the most habituated and frequent bus. We had ordered 4 new filters with Colin's help so they were due to arrive by Royal Mail the next day.  

 Checking with the harbour master for clearance to depart. Lets hope we can get more then 3 NM before returning this time. We were so lucky and blessed that this has happened in Stornoway (the fuel issue that is) and not mid crossing to Iceland...or worse with a lee shore some where. 

The plan has changed.  

We have decided we can not continue to get our boat home to Canada this summer, its too late in the year and simply feels as though its not meant to be. 

+  we have a very important party to be at August 20th that we must not miss, in Toronto.  So where too from here....bet you can guess where too. 

and so ends this blog, we hope you will join us for the next.